Cornucopia: Reflections of a Seasoned Alcoholist

by Lauren Mote (original story can be seen at www.urbandiner.ca)

We ended one festival to start another. After Victoria’s Art of the Cocktail was successfully put to bed the previous weekend in Victoria, Cornucopia, Whistler’s celebration of wine and food, was just stepping on the stage in the snowy coastal mountains 100 km in the other direction.

For us industry folk who are regularly flooded with invitations to attend quarterly IVSA wine exhibitions and private portfolio tastings, finding the time for another booze festival was a tough call, but with snow billowing down, I high tailed it on the much improved Sea to Sky highway to arrive at the pre-Olympic buzzing resort community ready to imbibe. Standing in the centre of town with tickets to some of the best events in my hot hands, I jumped in head first.

Let’s talk trade tasting: The Crush Gala, spread over two days, is Cornucopia’s flagship wine tasting event with over 75 wineries participating. Crush is always a successful crowding of the best and worse dressed of the festival, a phenomenal place to watch and partake in drunken humour and a wicked party to boot. But more importantly, it is a rather gigantic showcase of fantastic wineries from here and abroad with a few local spirit favourites like the Pemberton Distillery, makers of Schramm, a high-quality artisan vodka, found nestled in between. For those looking to expand and explore the range of their palates or just annihilate them, this was the place to do it.

Friday: Casino Royale
Ever since the Bearfoot Bistro’s owner Andre Saint Jacques threw the last of the legendary Masquerave parties in 2006, after nearly a decade of over the top decadence that mashed together endless Champagne, haute cuisine, costumes, nude body painted models, naughty dancers, and an “anything goes” attitude, Casino Royale at Ric’s Grill has been deemed the new “after party”.masquerave-cancelledFor the third year in a row, Ric’s Grill hosted their high energy “Las Vegas” type evening to satisfy the many devilish alter egos craving the sexy carnival atmosphere that disappeared with the loss of Masquerave. Casino Royale really does look like it came right out of a Bond flick – gentlemen in their finest attire, whether done-up in a tux or dapper three piece suit, and the ladies dressed-to-impress – tall heels, showgirl makeup, sultry dresses. The card tables were filled with glowing pink faces, as wine bottles were poured out by the dozen until the wee hours of the morning, the party continued.

Saturday: Bubbles and Oceans
At the conclusion of Saturday evening’s Crush Gala trade tasting, the doors swung open to my favourite venue, Araxi, for their long-standing and always sold-out Bubbles and Oceans soiree. Red carpets lined the cobblestone leading up to the entrance as the winter snow was swept away by a light gusting wind.

Just then I thought I could not consume another drop of wine, but I managed to convince my tired over-worked liver that Champagne and other bubbly bevies were actually held and processed in a different part of my body… seasoned professionals like me don’t stop until we’re lured out by security, don’t you know?

The spread was immaculate – wine reps Risha Gorkoff (Select Wines) and Paul Jordan (Stile Wines) seduced me with a more than generous 4 oz pour – I guzzled; I repeated. The bubbling beauties from Catalunya cleansed my tortured palate for the first hour.

After being escorted away from the dessert towers I eyeballed for most of the night, Brook Cairns (Whistler Brewing) and I enjoyed some much needed R&R with hand rolled sushi and Lanson Black Label, followed by Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard (House Wine) entertaining me with stories of their most recent travels to New Zealand.

The bubbles were free-flowing like a beautiful golden river I’d happily float down any day of the year. And just as I returned to indulge in the seductive dessert tower, with those delicious little macaroons within reach, I’m grabbed by someone else and dragged back to my sixth, or was it seventh, flute of bubbly. A wonderful party at one Canada’s best restaurants and kudos to Top Table publicist Shelley McArthur for pulling it all off while simultaneously launching three cookbooks!

All in all, Cornucopia, is still a great party, educational and interesting, even for us jaded booze professionals and well worth the journey to Whistler for the weekend.

And that was just another weekend in the life of a beverage and lifestyle aficionado. Upon my quick return to Vancouver, a new series of alcohol-related events were just gearing up – the frantic start of another long Christmas season for the seasoned alcoholist. Cheers!

Filed under: events, libations, wine , cornucopia, lauren mote, Urban Diner

Boozing – The Christmas Cocktail Edition.

by Lauren Mote

Here is a list of delicious contemporary and “spins” on classic cocktails perfect for the holidays.

1) Best noggin’ your eggs have ever seen:
Single Serving:
1 cold organic whole egg
2 oz 35% cream
1/2 oz B & B (Brandy & Benedictine)
1/2 oz Madeira (I use Broadbent – available at BCL)
1 oz Anejo Rum (I’m a big fan of Barbancourt 15 yr, but for price and availability, go for Bacardi 8 yr, or even a stock Sailor Jerry’s Rum would be awesome)
1 oz Simple Syrup (if you want to remain kinda “healthy” you can try some alternative sweetners: agave syrup, organic cane syrup – at Refinery we use our charred american oak syrup)
1 dash bitters (at Refinery we use a 1/8 oz of house bitters, but you can dash one little smidgen of angostura)
Dry shake without ice. Add ice, shake insanely hard. Make it an uber frothy one.
Double strain into either a chilled cocktail glass or an old fashioned glass. Hit it with freshly grated nutmeg and/or cinnamon.
It’s delicious.
Yesterday I made 3L at Refinery – pour all the contents in a large jar, combine with hand-blitzer, shake with ice to order (2 portions fit comfortably in a boston shaker)

2) Kick Ass Cider:
you’ll need 7 days for the infusion.

4L Jug organic freshly pressed apple cider
500mL Torres Brandy (that’s how much I’d start with, but you may add more if required)

Toast and add the following:
Cinnamon Sticks
Long Pepper
All Spice
Cloves
“PInch” Cardomom
“Pinch” Star Anise
White Pepper
Lemon/Orange Citrus peels
8-10 dashes angostura bitters

Cane or Raw Sugar Simple Syrup to taste (not sure how sweet the cider will still be after you fortify it)
Store in a cool dark place for a week
After a week, strain the bits out.
Serve to order for 300mL cup add a small knob of butter (optional but tastes amazing, and gives the “mouth feel” x 1/2 oz) and heat to serve – ummm I would avoid using a microwave, that’s just mental – use the old fashioned saucepan. :)

3) Feu de Camp “The Campfire Cocktail”
So, have you ever had squash in a cocktail? Sounds random, but I make random cocktails, using food a lot of the time. Makes the cocktail better for you, and more interesting. Check it:

Prep ahead of time: 1 butternut squash, halves, discard the guts. Brush with highest grade maple syrup, and sprinkle with kosher salt.
Roast until tender. Puree with 250mL Madeira in the food processor. Push through a tami, food mill or fine chinois until smooth.
In your shaker:
2 bar spoons (1 1/2 oz butterbut squash puree)
2 oz Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey
1/2 oz Mead Honey Wine
1/2 oz Lemon Juice
1/4 – 1/2 oz highest grade maple syrup (to taste, may need to adjust based on the sugar content of the squash)
1/2 oz house bitters (or 3 dashes angostura bitters)
Shake vigorously with ice, double strain into old fashioned glass.
This cocktail has a rich heavy mouth feel from the squash which is awesome.
It’s quite aromatic, and delightfully acidic with the mead and madeira added – as a garnish (optional) you can light the end of a cinnamon stick on fire, and rest it on top of the cocktail for that wintry smokey thingy.
It’s kick ass.

4) Tea Marteani
Pick a gin. Pick a tea. Pick a glass.
Right-o.
This is one of the most successful tea infusion recipes, that I use often whenever I change the tea marteanis on my menu. I have two people to thank for the kick start: Audrey Saunders (NY) and Christopher Flett (Vancouver) – BUT the seasonal inspirations come strictly from my Refinery staff and I.

Gin – giv’er with a good quality one. Just like in cooking, if you weren’t willing to drink the wine, why USE the wine? Tanqueray and Beefeater are good, and reasonably priced choices.

Tea – pick something you’d LIKE to drink. Nothing’s more disgusting then drinking a cocktail with licorice infused “sleepy time” laxative
tea. Gross. Maybe I decide to do a “colon blow” cocktail list it’ll make the top 5… but unlikely.

Here are some suggestions:
Darjeeling
Earl Grey
Chai Tea
Vanilla Oolong (my favourite)

Your infusion times may very between the teas, depending on the tannins in the leaves, and the strength of the tea’s initial flavour.
Quality counts, so pick a good quality, loose or bagged tea (empty the contents). I prefer organic/fair trade but that’s a personal preference.

Infuse 7-8 tsp (or 7-8 bags) into a 750mL bottle, shake once. Strain contents after 3 – 6 hours (again depending on the tea’s strength).

Use this basic recipe:
1 cold organic egg white
1 1/2 oz tea infusion
3/4 oz lemon juice
1 oz organic cane syrup (or simple syrup)

Dry shake, then shake with ice.
Double strain into chilled cocktail glass. No garnish.

All recipes are ©Poivre Media Co. c/o Lauren Mote 2007-2009

Filed under: recipes, spirits , audrey saunders, christmas, christopher flett, cocktails, lauren mote, recipes, the refinery

Women of the Sortilège Cup

Original story can be found at: http://urbandiner.ca/2009/12/01/women-of-sortilege-cup/#more-9405
December 1, 2009 at 2:16 pm · Similar Stories in Cocktail Culture, Competitions, Danielle Rabkin, Events
by Danielle Rabkin, Urban Diner

An unlikely venue for a cocktail competition, the Hospitality Expo at the Vancouver Convention Centre, played host to the Sortilège Cup presented by NONS Drinks on November 23rd and 24th. Broken down into two days, one each for women and men, the competition was a showing of the city’s finest. With Sortilège, a blend of Canadian whisky and maple syrup hailing from Montreal, as the feature ingredient, each contender brought their best game to the table.

I had the honor of judging the women’s competition and believe me, the contestants brought it. Their creativity and innovative concoctions wowed and impressed across the board. In fact, it was such an impressive showing that 50% of the women scored higher than the top scoring male competitor from the day before. Scoring was based on appearance, aroma, taste, technique, originality, and overall impression. Seasoned vets Lauren Mote of The Refinery and Wendy McGuiness of Chambar took second and third place, respectively, with innovative cocktails far outside the box.

Lauren Mote was at work creating her “Feu de Camp”(French for Campfire) butternut squash puree, Sortilège, Jack Daniels, madiera, lemon, house bitters, mead honey wine, maple syrup. And on the side “Campfire Side”: rosemary and Fleur de Sel potatochips smoked “en tasse” with smoldering juniper, cardamom, long pepper, cinnamon, and citrus peel. Wendy McGuiness’s “Île d’Orléans” (French for Orleans Island which is outside of downtown Quebec City): Sortilège, moscato grappa, Wiser’s Canadian Whisky, muddled thyme, fresh grapefruit juice, fresh pear nectar, egg white, a dusting of crushed Sortilège candy, and candied thyme.

Other contenders that did not go unnoticed include cocktail competition rookies Alicia Grunert from Maenam and Marlo Panucci of Market by Jean Georges at the Shangri-La Hotel. As first time contenders they presented intriguing and creative libations. In the end, it was Danielle Tatarin who swept first place with “Geisha’s Milk Punch”. Tatarin’s creation was crafted with exotic ingredients found in Chinatown, the neighborhood of her future domain, The Keefer Bar. Tatarin delivered with exotic, and never before heard of, ingredients such as milk fruit, lu han guo, and cherimoya honey syrup. The result was a cocktail exhibiting intriguing aromas, complex yet smooth flavors, and a divine finish which she presented with true finesse and expertise.

First place winners, Danielle Tatarin and Simon Kaulback of Boneta (from the men’s competition) will be visiting Montreal in 2010 for a visit to the Sortilège plant. ~ Danielle Rabkin

Sortilège: Specialty listing +44316 $29.99 (375mL)

Geisha’s Milk Punch by Danielle Tatarin
• 1 ½ oz Sortilège
• ½ oz apple brandy
• 1 oz milk fruit juice
• ½ oz cherimoya honey syrup
• dash lu han guo
• grated nutmeg
• stirred, not shaken, with ice.

Filed under: cocktail competitions, events , bc hospitality expo, chambar, danielle rabkin, danielle tatarin, lauren mote, nons drinks, sortilege, the keefer, the refinery, Urban Diner, Wendy McGuinness

Important Holiday Events

by Lauren Mote

I have two projects I’d like to share with you, in hopes that some of you would like to be involved.

1) Holiday Blood Donation via Canadian Blood Services
“BOUDIN NOIR” The Restaurant Industry Gives Back.
As you know, I donate blood regularly. ‘Tis the season. Each person that participates will receive a Gift Certificate for their generosity for joining me. The group donation date is Tuesday December 15 2009 @ 12:25. A full listing of donation eligibility is attached in this email by PDF. Please me an email at rsvp@therefineryvancouver.com Subject Line: “Boudin Noir” if you’re interested.

2) Food Drive – “Sustainably Stuffed”
From December 12 – 23 SIP Lounge & The Refinery will be asking each guest to bring in a non-perishable food item to support the Greater Vancouver Food Bank Society. With your donation, please include a business card, and nightly we will be raffling off Gift Certificate for SIP Lounge & The Refinery – available for use in food and/or beverage. We will also be accepting cash donations on behalf of the GVFBS.

For all those emailed that have access to event calendars and PR deliveries, please include both of the above event summaries in your next announcements. Specifically, CITYFOOD MAG, VANCOUVER MAGAZINE, URBAN DINER, SCOUT MAGAZINE, GOODLIFE VANCOUVER, PLAN IT BC, THE GLOBE AND MAIL, VANCOUVER SUN, VANCOUVER COURIER, BUTTER ON THE ENDIVE, THE GEORGIA STRAIGHT, EAT MAGAZINE.

Feel free to forward this email on to anyone that might be interested.
Thank you very much for all of your anticipated support, and happy holidays from all of us down in the Granville Entertainment District.

Filed under: events , blood donation, charity, food drive, the refinery

Immaculate Conception: A Whiskey Dinner

’tis the season to drink a lot of whiskey… GOOD whiskey.
December 8th 2009 marks a very special evening.

The Refinery and Cask Strength present “Immaculate Conception” an evening dedicated to joys of whiskey and food.
Similar to the Whiskey 101 classes that local aficionado Andrew Starritt is known for, this event will combine Andrew’s unique talent in sourcing some of the most obscure whiskies (five for this event), while Refinery Chef Michael Carter creates a 5 course menu using whiskey in thoughtful ways. We will begin the evening with an award-winning whiskey cocktail by Refinery’s General Manager & Mixologist, Lauren Mote. This event is not for the faint-at-heart. There will be bundles of whiskey consumption, a sensory-overload, and a huge educational component. We will be starting promptly at 7:30p. Don’t miss out on the line up below, especially because none are available in BC!

Whiskies being featured:

Bulleit Bourbon
Glendullan – Soft, buttered shortbread, floral, but with malty weight. Very complex and custard all the way through.

Benrinnes 15yo – Ripe sherry notes, perfectly aged, slurpy sultanas and Christmas cake. Pipe tobacco? Lively though sublime

Glen Scotia 17 yo – Peaches – apricots and vanilla, nutty and a little dry on the finish

Springbank 10yo Port – God huge port influence, something oily and maritime though. A little salt around the edges, but dominated by big rich port. Raisins, chocolate. Great mouth feel and coats the roof of your mouth then slowly retreats.

McCarthy’s – WOW! Stunning for a 3 yo – Peaty and some smoke, not as heavy as the Scottish Islay malts, but is big and chewy. Earthy, musty and unruly on the palate – but all in a beautiful way!

Lagavulin 16 – What else can be said that hasn’t. Huge peat, iodine, smoke and even some fishy tar??? Huge complexity and endless finish.

Tickets are now available with a credit card at The Refinery, either in person or by email.
$100 ticket
rsvp@therefineryvancouver.com
Subject: “Immaculate Conception”

The Refinery
1115 Granville St.
Vancouver, BC
604.687.8001

Brought to you by:

Cask Strength
The Refinery Market-Style-Eatery
Poivre Media Co.
Bulleit Bourbon
Diageo Canada Inc.

Filed under: culinary world, events , andrew starritt, bulleit bourbon, diageo canada, lauren mote, poivre media co, the refinery

Chowder Chowdown?

by Lauren Mote

Tonight at the Vancouver Aquarium, bellies were filled.
Through the daunting correspondence, and play-by-play from VanFoodster Richard Wolak, and Refinery Client Relations Manager Lee-Anne Gordon, it seems I’ve correctly identified the winner(s) – both with the winning chowders, and the winning hearts.

First place:

Go Fish, Chef Matt and Chef Andrew Christie

Andrew has been cooking since he first was tall enough to stand on a chair and “help” make cookies. In 1997, he moved to Ottawa to study philosophy at the University of Ottawa, and it was in the cafeteria of the university’s residence that his passion grew into a career. After a short stint in Montreal, he moved to Stratford, Ontario, training at the Church Restaurant and Bijou Bistro, then moved to the Rimrock Resort’s Eden dining room in Banff for a year and a half.

Second place:

The Refinery, Executive Chef Michael Carter

Michael Carter was born and raised in Vancouver. He has been cooking professionally for over ten years. After graduating from the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, he honed his skills at some of Vancouver’s finest restaurants. Some highlights include stints at The Teahouse in Stanly Park, The Opus Hotel and The Hotel Vancouver. Before taking the post of executive chef at Sip and The Refinery, Michael was working with the Mark James Group.

Third place:

COAST Restaurant, Executive Chef Josh Wolfe

COAST Restaurant welcomed Josh Wolfe, a Toronto native, to its well established culinary team as Executive Chef in October 2007. Wolfe began his cooking career at Centro Grill and Wine Bar in Toronto. While completing his apprenticeship at Centro, Wolfe learned the speed and precision necessary to cater fine dinning to upwards of 300 guests. Promoted to Sous-Chef at Toronto’s The Fifth, Wolfe refined his cooking and honed his management skills. During his stay, The Fifth was honoured with the city’s most coveted award, Number One Restaurant by Toronto Life Magazine in April 2003. While Wolfe’s training is classical, his inspiration is contemporary and his style is fueled by both products and seasons.

Although Go Fish was the winner, I gotta say, without a doubt, Chef Carter at THE REFINERY was uber disappointed. Talk about blatant passion. He’s like me – a perfectionist to an extreme, quite competitive, and doesn’t enter a contest unless he wants the win bad enough. Come try his “award-winning” chowder at The Refinery. Congratulations to the Chefs at both Go Fish and Coast for an excellent display of chowder-ship.

Filed under: culinary world

Cointreau Competition at Pourhouse, Gastown.

by Jay Jones, Urbandiner.ca (http://urbandiner.ca/2009/11/09/the-bar-craft-cointreau-competion-at-pourhouse/)

November 9, 2009 at 11:45 pm · Similar Stories in Cocktail Culture, Competitions, Downtown, Jackie Connelly, Jay Jones

Bartenders are fiercely proud of what they do. It’s not a job, or a career, and much more than a craft – it is a way of life for those lucky enough to do it. Drinking brought us to what we do for a living, and it persists in maintaining our enthusiasm for it.

(All images by: Jackie Connelly Photography)

Bartending, at its highest form, represents a keeper’s emotion for the drink and all it embodies. Book smarts and experience count for much, but the craft of cocktailing is a product of spirit infatuation – an extension of true affection for the bottle; all its truths, promises and lies.

The Craft of Cointreau was designed around the love of Bartending. In creating this event, the mandate for skilled crafting was clear; but how do you judge love? The perception of essential intangibles would decide the victor. To the winner went respect (and a week of drinking in France). The criteria: creative use of Cointreau, competence in technique, and plain and simple devotion to the craft.

The BartendersDanielle Tatarin pursues greatness, and finds it. Behind the Bar at DB Bistro (and soon The Keefer Bar), she delivers the charm and style of the Golden Era of Cocktails

Mike Parks makes what he likes. At the Cascade Room, he builds sound drinks with brazen character – in old fashioned style with hand crafted bitters.Christina Kuypers of Voya has a way with words. She talked her way into our hearts and livers, with bold ingredients and eclectic flavours. Trevor Kallies is unassuming. At Granville Room, he builds some of the best drinks in town with understated integrity – showing bold innovation, and the satisfying kick you hope for.

Bobbi Kay of Boneta fought through nerves to bring grace, a killer smile and humble skills to the Bar. Her Hepburn-influenced “Audrey” is a stunner.

Giovanni Giardino has a big mouth, and some pretty interesting and funny stuff comes out of it. At Campagnolo, he not-so-quietly blends imagination with intoxication. His “Cointrol” is a vibrant suggestion of fresh possibilities.

Colin MacDougall of Blue Water Café is a devoted student of the craft – showing through strong technique and obvious study; evident in his “The Horse You Rode in On”Lauren Mote of The Refinery is huge geek, and we love her dearly. The consummate foodie Bartender – her culinary Cocktails insist upon us and we are grateful. 3rd place honours were given for her complex creation.^ 3rd place, “The Side Loire” by Lauren Mote.Justin Tisdale brings a quiet cool to Market at the Shangri-La; his “Cointreau Esplendido” is a bold candidate for the perfect (long) cigar Cocktail, and good enough for 2nd place.^ 2nd place, “Cointreau Esplendido” by Justin Tisdale.If you want to see what pure love of Bartending looks like, go see Geoff Robinson at The Diamond. In his first ever competition, not only did he win the whole thing, but reminded us all of the importance of doing things with respect and humility.^ 1st place, The “Auld Alliance” is a striking Cocktail in so many ways, but Geoff truly won the judges over with seemingly effortless swagger, seamless construction and obvious sincerity.
The future of Bartending in Vancouver is bright. Cheers to all of us.

~ Jay Jones

All photos by Jackie Connelly

Filed under: libations, spirits , bobbi kay, christine kuypers, cocktail competition, cocktails, cointreau, colin macdougall, danielle tartarin, danielle tatarin, geoff robinson, giovanni giardino, jackie connelly, jay jones, justin tisdall, lauren mote, mike parks, pourhouse, trevor kalles

Mission Hill Portfolio Tasting

When I was invited to taste the Mission Hill portfolio, I couldn’t help but think about the bargain bin at the local liquor store. What else exists between their innocuous stock wines and Oculus? The Shangri-La hosted a complete tasting that effectively changed my perception of this long standing vineyard and winery in the Okanagan.

Okay, here we go!

All of the Mission Hill whites showed wonderful characteristics, and as the food lover that I am, I couldn’t help but daydream about the tasty pairings the wines invoked, even though the centre table in the Conway Room was completely overflowing with the usual wine tasting accompaniments – cheese, bread, fruit and more cheese.

The Whites:

Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2008 – unoaked, crisp and bone dry. Its tasting note of tropical fruit made me instantly salivate for a ceviche or tartare… LDB Retail $15.99

Reserve Riesling 2007 – quite a big bouquet on this guy; peaches, big citrus rind. On the palate, it’s not exactly like licking a limestone rock formation, but there’s definitely a pleasant minerality to go along with the stone fruits, medium + acidity, medium body and moderate finish. DB Bistro’s “choucroute” was what I really wanted with this wine, but alas I had a nice sharp hard cheese instead. LDB Retail $18.99

Select Lot Collection Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2006 – ideally I would’ve love this wine to be a touch colder, but its character shone through nonetheless. The nose and palate were quite similar, and quite pronounced – tropical fruit notes, but more emphasis erupted in tangerine, honey, and lime. The body was slightly heavier then I was expecting, what a nice treat! Although I am a sucker for the Sumac Ridge Black Sage blend of the same grapes, I really enjoyed the Mission Hill, although the price is a bit higher. LDB Retail $26.99

Select Lot Collection Chardonnay 2006 – lovely. So this wine combines those fresh characteristics we come to expect from a well made Okanagan Chardonnay – the american and french oak treatment lends some toasty vanilla, spice and rich butteriness, without overpowering the youthful fruit character, and a pronounced body. Similar to the Perpetua I tried directly afterwards, the “sur lie” method gives that rich yeasty character, boosting the body and flavour profile. Damn, this is a tasty wine. LDB Retail $26.99

Legacy Series “Perpetua” Chardonnay 2007 – “My abosute favourite of all the BC Chardonnays….” pipes in Judith Lane, and as you’ll find out now, I couldn’t agree more. I’d like to slap a enthusiastic thumbs up next to this one. A blend of three chardonnay clones, this wine is the pinnacle of white wine production at Mission Hill; orange blossoms, citrus and ripe pears on the nose, meet a brilliant french oak, “sur lie” and slightly oxidative character – nuts, and mineral – both on the nose and palate . It’s refreshing to know that this wine has gone through a thoughtful barrel fermentation that doesn’t completely kill the wine’s fresh youthful vitality. Only 150 cases available, in 6 packs. This wine hit retail on October 15. LDB Retail $35.99
The Reds:

Five Vineyards Pinot Noir 2007 – beautiful ruby colour, smooth tannins and bright, juicy red cherries. This is the perfect everyday Pinot Noir for those that cannot get through the day without a wee splash. LDB Retail $16.99

Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 – with a smooth palate and tannins, this wine displays the textbook pinot noir tasting note with it’s warm spices, like cloves, and cinnamon, plus that tantalizing sour cherry, ripe plums, earthy mushroom and bell pepper. LDB Retail $21.99Reserve Shiraz 2007 – deep purple (the colour not the band), super rich and earthy; this “in your face” black fruit, and wintery sweet-spice profile gives us a huge aroma, fantastically round tannins, with a hint of fresh green leaves. LDB $21.99 Retail

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – dark fruit, black currants, robust dark chocolate; great value for a well made BC Cab. Unfortunately it’s unavailable as of yet in the marketplace for retail sales.
MH Select Lot Collection Syrah 2006 – a nice step up from the Reserve Shiraz – bigger fruit, mouth-watering acidity, rich colour, and hot alcohol. Plums, deep toast, chocolate and berries – I’m in love. This wine can age a little, but it’ll be a great glass now. LDB $36.99 Retail

Select Lot Collection Merlot 2005 – again, the quality in the Select Lot Collection (SLC) wines are outstanding. This Merlot mimicks the tasting note I always seek in a sophisticated merlot – dark fruits, spicy oak, vanilla, dried herbs, full body, round tannins, long finish, medium acidity – just really, really pleasant. LDB $34.99 Retail

Legacy Series “Quatrain” 2006 – the name comes from “quatrain” meaning a four lined poem or stanza, so this wine is simply a blend of four grapes, syrah dominated, with an equally large portion of merlot, and minor additions of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. This is the second vintage of this wine, the grapes having been hand selected from the best blocks in Mission Hill’s estates in Oliver and Osoyoos. Of course, this juicy red will age beautifully for a while, but sampling its potential now was a treat. Black cherries, black currants – just dark and super ripe in general. Mouth drying tannins and high acidity suggest its need for time, but that’s ok. We can wait. LDB $45.00 RetailLegacy Series “Compendium” 2006 -  this is one of the hallmarks of the care and craftsmanship taken during Mission Hill’s viticulture and wine-making process – like the “Quatrain”, the grapes are hand selected, and hand sorted from the best blocks in Oliver and Osoyoos. Merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot create this “Compendium” or collection. French oak fermenters, extended maceration, separate maturation, 100% French oak barrels for 13 months. It’s rich, it’s an excellent example of Bordeaux-style, but it needs a little time. LDB $40.00 Retail“Oculus” 2006 – the harvest for these grapes has just come to an end – specially designated vineyard areas are set aside specifically for this big wine, which possesses an equally enormous reputation. This is the Mission Hill signature Bordeaux-inspired blend – merlot dominates, cabernet sauvignon in the supporting role, with additions of cabernet franc and petit verdot. The grapes go through a “gravity filled” french oak fermentation, followed by separate maturation in French oak barrels for almost 15 months. Black cherry, dark chocolate, vanilla bean, warm spices, blackberries and dark plums, Super rich. Super complex. Super duper. You’ll have to give her time though… naturally. Specialty stores always carry this wine, so need not to worry. However this is a signature big BC red, and most fine restaurants will carry it, especially an earlier vintage that’s a little bit more “ready to drink” then the current vintage release. LDB $70.00 Retail If you fancy a magnum, they’ve got those too – ready at the LDB for $175.00 in its own wooden sarcophagus.The end of the tasting tour landed me with the Reserve Riesling Icewine 2008; luscious, rich, tart, high acid, citrus, orange blossoms, and an appreciated hint of nuttiness. This comes with a high price tag, but it’s gosh darn delicious. I may have sat with half a pound of blue cheese in the corner with this wine…. Mark Anthony reps wouldn’t stop staring at me, but I suspect they understood my actions… LDB $59.99 Retail

We came, we saw, we conquered… Mission Hill.

~ Lauren Mote

For more information on Mission Hill wines, please visit www.missionhillwinery.com or  contact the Mark Anthony Group Inc. in Vancouver at 604.263.9994.

Filed under: libations, wine , lauren mote, mission hill winery, shangrai-la hotel, Urban Diner

The Ultimate Breakfast Experiment.

By Jessica Grajczyk

The premise:

1. Breakfast is my favourite meal.

2.  Nuba is my favourite restaurant in Vancouver.  I’m sure everyone is sick of my Nuba leg humping.

3.  I haven’t eaten eggs in over a month due to a vegan experiment.

4.  I am not familiar with traditional Lebanese breakfast.

5.  I’ve just spent the better part of my morning traipsing through torrential rain and waiting for notoriously inconsistent east Van public transit to try Nuba’s new breakfast menu.

The event:

We walk into the familiar, warm and welcoming underground lair of magicians of Lebanese cuisine, also known as Nuba, at the corner of Cambie and Hastings.  I peruse the lengthy menu but, due to some earlier online lurking, I’ve already decided that I will try the tomato egg casserole – poached eggs in a garlic and cumin tomato sauce, baked in a terracotta pot ($10).  And I’m going to throw in an order of their unparalleled hummus ($2 – amazing!).  I normally prefer savoury breakfasts and I’m fully prepared for the strong flavours that will surely ensue.

After an unfortunate encounter with soy milk chunks in her drip coffee (not necessarily meaning bad soy milk, just that the soy milk stars are not aligning), my breakfast date gets a replacement soy latte at no extra charge.  We happily sip our wake-up drinks between sips of Nuba’s signature cucumber water – so refreshing!

Our food arrives and our table becomes a Tetris game of plates.  My casserole, with its side of roasted potatoes and tomatoes on a separate plate, a small dish of tahini, a bowl of hummus, a bowl of pita, my date’s plate of ful medames (fava beans, red peppers, lemon and parsley – $9), plus all our drinks (refer to photo).

The preliminary verdict:

It breaks my heart to say that neither I, nor my date (who eats at Nuba at least three times a week), are particularly impressed by our breakfasts.  The hummus is ALWAYS good, and of course the potatoes are little crispy/salty triangles of yum, but my casserole has a whipped porridgey texture and the ‘poached’ eggs on top of it are done extremely easy.   After a few stirs it resembles more of a runny, garlicky, tomatoey, cuminy soup than a casserole.  I don’t think it’s a good idea to ever eat raw eggs, especially if you are reintroducing eggs into your diet after a month long hiatus.  My date notes that her ful medames are a bit too heavy on the citrus for her liking while musing that “maybe this is what Lebanese breakfast is supposed to be like and we’re just not used to it”.  She vows to stick with the tried and tested mjadra in the future (a green lentil and rice dish offered at all times).

The concluding verdict:

We will return to try some of the other options such as the egg breakfast pita (with mjadra, caramelized onions, avocado, tomatoes, organic greens and pickle – $7.50) and probably steer clear of the casseroles and ful medames.  Next time I’m going to bring a carnivore so I can witness how the Lebanese Champion goes down (fried eggs with zataar crusted Fraser Valley sirloin steak with fresh labneh and pita – $12.50).  Other options include lamb sausage, labneh (strained yogurt) and fruit.  They also serve a wide selection of fresh pressed fruit and vegetable juices and traditional Turkish coffee.  Our server informed us that Veganmania usually delivers a selection of fresh vegan baked goods, which wasn’t the case this morning to our dismay.

We head back out in the rain with our bellies bursting and the contentment of a large breakfast at great value, even though the flavours and textures were not our cup of tea.

Nuba Breakfast Mon-Fri 8am to 11am, Sat 9am – 1pm

207B West Hastings at Cambie

604.688.1655

Filed under: Featured Contributor, breakfast, reviews , breakfast, gastown, Jessica Grajczyk, nuba restaurant

Glass Act

by Lauren Mote

Original story can be found in The Publican Magazine www.ablebc.ca/publican/download/fall_2009/06glassact.pdf

Which chalice should you choose?

This is another one of those restaurant industry gospels, glassware. The current trend promotes that each beer, wine or cocktail should be served in an appropriately shaped glass – but is there definable truth to this trend? Beverage connoisseurs of all kinds firmly stand behind their belief that the shape and size of a glass does matter.

Glassware dates as far back as 1500 BC, and the Egyptians are credited with this monumental discovery which has since evolved over the last 3500 years. How does glassware go from a glob of goo to that gorgeous stemware? Liquid receptacles like the “beer glass” are made from “bottle glass” – a blend of sand, soda and limestone, none of which are going extinct anytime soon, so don’t fret when that $7 glass shatters, you can always replace it (it just becomes costly after the tenth time). The mixture is heated in a furnace, followed by glass blowing, shaping and cooling. Sounds easy, but glasses are hand made, one by one, without machines – I suppose this helps us to appreciate those expensive pieces on the top shelf of our dusty dining-room hutch. But how does each glass type differ from one another? What’s the point of producing hundreds of different shapes, types and sizes?

Flip to the back of a Belgian trappist beer bottle, there’s valuable information listed apart from the ingredients, and the 5¢ recycling jackpot – there is usually a picture of a glass – more than just a suggestion, it’s really beer consumption instructions. For those that believe this is hog-wash, I urge you to experiment. Chester Carey, Canada’s only Certified Cicerone – the equivalent of a Master Sommelier in the beer world – lends some great advice. Carey explains that most of what we taste in a beer comes directly from the aroma, centrally found in its foamy head. Although perfect beer pours often occur, beers still have different levels of carbonation and proteins, which affects the head on your beer once settled inside the glass. Ideal glassware, Carey explains, should be ultra-cleaned, dried, polished, and most importantly the top should be tapered back to keep the head in place for as long as possible. Beers that have a higher alcohol by volume should be poured in small amounts to maintain the head does not dissipate. Carey concludes that each beer style must therefore have its own glass shape it’s best suited to, and that he much prefers the correct glass than a frosty glass – in the end, like tasting wines, aromas and tasting notes are best detected when the liquids are slightly warmer.

Of course, we are not suggesting that every bar owner in Vancouver race out to grab a case of each beer glass, we’re just providing the awareness that the basic glass shape does matter. What does this mean for the hospitality industry/consumer? Another fact – the more education one has, the more likely an industry worker is to persuade a guest to try something outside-the-box – a different style of beer, or a different region (this includes the rep selling the beer products with accompanying glassware in the first place). The best example I recall is a popular Belgian beer called Duvel. In 1960, the official Duvel glass hit the market. Its unique tapered-tulip shape made it ideal to house the beer’s super foamy head for an extended period of time – this made each sip equally as flavourful and aromatic as the previous one. Use Carey’s advice as a guideline and try your own experiments based on the recommendations of other connoisseurs and brewmasters. In the end, it’s still personal preference.

If proper glassware principles apply to the beer world so vividly, we can only imagine how intense the world of wine is. Likely the most popular household name in crystal stemware is Riedel, whether we have the money to splurge on their unique lines of glassware or not. I use them as the primary example for wine receptacles because they have taken this different glass for a different wine to an entirely new level. The caption on their website says it all, “for the last 50 years Riedel has been the leader in grape specific, wine friendly glassware”. Why is this so important? Just as Carey described the aromas in beer are showcased through its foamy head, there is something quite similar about wine. For those who have never taken an instructional “how-to” on wine tasting, you really wouldn’t know how important the glassware issue is. You’re in luck, because all we really require are 2-4 different glasses just for wine, rather then stocking your cupboards with numerous 4 packs of over 22 glass types from Riedel’s Sommelier Series, from Champagne flutes to Burgundy balloons to Whisky tumblers. An aromatic wine, like a pinot noir or a white Burgundy gets a wider glass – when you swirl the contents, the fragrance opens up in the wine, and each sip becomes a sensory adventure. A tighter wine, like a cabernet sauvignon or a syrah gets a thinner glass – rounder at the bottom, and slightly tapered at the top – when the contents are swirled, the aromas are released to your nose, while trapped in the glass for prolonged periods of time. I should make mention that most white wines are served in shorter, thinner glasses to prevent a rapid transfer of heat from the sippers hand to the wine, but very few white wines are meant to be consumed at 12℃. Companies like Riedel have capitalized on catering to the senses, and we applaud them, but for the modern bar owner, having a couple of versatile glass selections is a good idea, but it is unnecessary to carry an entire line of products if your restaurant or bar concept isn’t indicative of an intense wine program.

The exciting thing about today’s technology is that tempered glasses are available for high volume bar concepts. Tempered glass uses slightly different compounds to create the glassware itself, followed by heating up and quickly cooling down the glassware while its being manufactured. This can happen up to 5 times per glass. Basically, the heating/cooling allows the glass to create multi-layers resulting in a higher resistance to breakage, scratches and discoloration over time. Although they are only slightly cheaper in price to crystal, Arcoroc based out of France is an admirable choice for durable long lasting tempered glassware – they just look a little “thick” compared to crystal.

Lastly, the phenomenon that has taken the modern world by storm – the elusive cocktail. Although cocktails have been created and constructed for over 100 years, a different kind of glassware line seems to have been created specifically for different types of cocktails – blending, shaken, stirred and built. Now we as bar and restaurant owners/managers are faced with another question – how far are we willing to go with our beverage program. An alcohol forward establishment, who’s sole generation of income relies on the sale of alcoholic beverages, may be able to justify an entire fleet of glasses to satisfy every facet of their cocktail program. Individual prices can also be adjusted to reflect the cost of the glass used, labour involved in ultra-cleaning and polishing, and finally proper storage. These days, cocktail bars all over Vancouver are stocking their shelves a little differently – but how does one know what glassware to stock? Do we choose crystal or tempered? This is undoubtedly a choice made based on finances, concept, and demographic. There is a necessity to stock the back bar with old fashioned glasses (short, chubby glasses, usually between 6 – 16 oz, depending on whether it’s the single or the double version), collins glasses (tall 10 – 14 oz glasses), highball glasses (taller and thinner than the old fashioned, holding 8 – 12 oz), martini/cocktail glasses, and shot glasses. However these are all a matter of preference. I have effectively visited and worked in bars that have 2 types of glasses, large and small – and it works.

As our city becomes more and more cultured within beverage preference and expectation, it is our job as bar and restaurant representatives to give the public something distinctive. Perhaps your establishment is resourceful enough to carry 5-6 different glasses that have proven versatile within the day-to-day operations of the business, but as I said before the selection of glassware made, from beer to wine to cocktail are completely indicative to the type of concept you wish to present.

Filed under: glassware , chester carey, glassware, lauren mote, publican magazine